Back to Africa
By Tania Shortt Wittmann
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Dear readers,
Hello… or perhaps I should say Jambo !
For thirty-five years, Arnaud and I have shared a love affair, not just with each other, but with the vast, untamed beauty of Africa. This year, to celebrate our journey together, we decided to return, to immerse ourselves once more in the continent that had captured our hearts.
Kenya, a land of striking contrasts and breathtaking landscapes.
Kenya
Having explored the wonders of Tanzania, the serene shores of Pemba, and the vibrant culture of Senegal, we set our sights on Kenya, a land of stark contrasts and breathtaking landscapes.
Kenya, a nation in East Africa, is a tapestry woven from diverse ecosystems, from the sweeping savannahs teeming with wildlife to the snow-capped peaks of Kilimanjaro. It’s a land of ancient cultures, where the Maasai warriors still roam, and of modern cities pulsing with life. And for all gem lovers, it’s the exclusive home of the Tsavorite, a vibrant green gemstone.
We were eager to experience its unique blend of wilderness and warmth.
Our adventure began in Tsavo West National Park, at the legendary Finch Hatton camp. The journey itself was a testament to Africa’s raw beauty. The “international airport,” as we jokingly called it, was a mere runway and a small, charming shelter, a stark contrast to the sprawling terminals we were accustomed to. But it was precisely this simplicity that set the tone for our experience.
From the moment we arrived, we were embraced by the camp’s welcoming spirit. We quickly connected with John and Valerie, an American couple from Virginia. John, a passionate photographer, captured the magic of the landscape with his lens, while Valerie, with her incredible warmth and uncanny ability to remember every name, made us feel instantly as good old friends.
A more intimate and mysterious experience
Tsavo Ouest
Our days in Tsavo West were defined by extraordinary safaris with Evans, our knowledgeable and enthusiastic ranger. The park’s unique charm lay in its relative solitude. Unlike the more crowded reserves, Tsavo West offered a more intimate and mysterious experience. The animals, less accustomed to the presence of vehicles, seemed to exist in a world untouched by the modern age.
One morning, we embarked on a quintessential African experience: breakfast in the bush. The sun, a fiery orb on the horizon, painted the savannah in hues of gold and orange as we savored our meal, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the wild. It was a moment of pure magic, a reminder of the simple joys that Africa offers in abundance.
Another morning, we rose before dawn, at 4:00 AM, to trek into the hills and witness the sunrise. The walk was challenging, but the reward was immeasurable. As we reached the summit, the sun emerged, casting its light across the vast expanse of the park. The views were breathtaking, a panorama of rolling hills and endless plains. We enjoyed breakfast amidst this spectacle, a silent communion with nature.
Our descent through the lush forest was equally enchanting. We learned about the local flora, including the humble mint leaf, a natural toothbrush and toothpaste, a testament to the resourcefulness of those who live in harmony with the land. And then, as we emerged from the forest, we were greeted by the majestic sight of Kilimanjaro, its snow-capped peak shimmering in the distance. It was a moment of awe, a reminder of the grandeur of the natural world.
One late afternoon, we were invited to participate in the Maasai Olympics. The events, designed to test strength, agility, and accuracy, were a humbling experience. We laughed, we struggled, and we gained a newfound respect for the athleticism of the Maasai warriors.
a truly moving experience
the masai village
Our visit to a Maasai village was a deeply moving experience. We were welcomed with open arms by the women and children, their smiles radiating warmth and sincerity. We were invited into a traditional hut, a simple dwelling that spoke volumes about the resilience and resourcefulness of the Maasai people. Words fail to capture the essence of this experience, but thankfully, Arnaud captured it on video, a visual testament to the beauty of their culture.
Our visit to the local school was another highlight of our time in Tsavo West. The school, with its 450 students aged 3 to 14, was a beacon of hope in the community. Despite the overcrowded classrooms, with up to 60 students per class, the atmosphere was one of discipline and dedication. The students, in the midst of their exams, greeted us with enthusiastic welcome songs, their voices filled with pride and determination. Their worn uniforms, a symbol of their limited resources, did not diminish their pride in their school, their teachers, and their headmaster.
Their smiles and unwavering spirit were a powerful reminder of the importance of education and the resilience of the human spirit.
Connect to the serenity of the surrounding area
yoga
To balance the excitement of our adventures, we also enjoyed yoga classes with breathtaking views, allowing us to quiet our minds and connect with the serenity of the surroundings.
In the evenings, we gathered at the camp for delicious dinners, prepared and served by the kind and generous staff. The sounds of local music, performed by the camp’s talented musician, Alex, filled the air, creating a warm and convivial atmosphere.
As our time in Tsavo West drew to a close, we felt a pang of sadness. We had formed deep connections with the people and the land, and leaving felt like leaving a piece of our hearts behind. With tear-filled eyes, we bid farewell to our new friends, promising to return very soon.
Our adventure took us from the savannah’s heart to the serene shores of Msambweni beach on Kenya’s coast. In a delightful twist, even thousands of kilometers from home, we discovered our hotel was owned by a compatriot, Frederik Vanderhoeven. A charming reminder of our world’s interconnectedness.
We traded the thrill of wildlife encounters for the tranquil beauty of the Indian Ocean. The turquoise waters, marked by dramatic high and low tides, were a mesmerizing spectacle. Long stretches of white sand invited leisurely strolls, a perfect balm after our exhilarating safari. Evenings were spent sharing stories and experiences with fellow travelers, deepening our connection to this remarkable country.
the beauty of the land and the warmth of its people
the real wealth
Our journey to Kenya evoked the spirit of Karen Blixen, whose love for Denis Finch Hatton and for Africa is immortalized in her writings. Like her, we were captivated by the beauty of the land and the warmth of its people. We witnessed a life lived with simplicity and joy, a life where happiness is found in the present moment, in the connections with others, and in the appreciation of the natural world.
The people of Kenya, with their smiles, their resilience, and their unwavering spirit, taught us a valuable lesson: that true wealth lies not in material possessions, but in the richness of human connection and the appreciation of the simple things in life. We left Kenya with a renewed sense of gratitude and a profound respect for the people who call this magnificent land home.
